being catty - 7.17.09

Iced Vietnamese Coffee (Not Pictured at Mai's)

Hydraulic El Camino in Parking Lot? Check. Barred Windows and Doors? Check. Crack House Across the Street? Check. I have a newfound appreciation and slight obsession with “dives”. Mai’s Vietnamese Cuisine has all the outside elements of a “dive”, but inside the restaurant is surprisingly neat. Now don’t misunderstand me here, Mai’s is no substitute for Lemongrass, Tei Tei or other fashionable Asian locales. But much like its food, it is comfortable and enjoyable.


On a Monday night, the restaurant has about 10 parties dining and picks up throughout the evening. There are still plenty of tables to spare but the crowd looks worldly and relaxed; they must be regulars. Mai’s is another BYO restaurant and if you know me well enough you know I’ve done my research for food and wine pairings. I’ve learned that white wines like Grüner Veltliner, Gewurztraminer, and Riesling are great with most Asian food as their slightly sweet nature contrasts to the salty, spicy heat of the cuisine. We brought a German Riesling from the Mosel region.


Our server greeted us and was a little anxious to take our orders. As we often do, we ordered many different things to share. Both of us are adventurous diners, but for two very different reasons: I like to individually taste as many things as possible to get an overall sense of the restaurant and learn about the food and he just likes to combine as many different food items as possible onto one plate/bowl at the same time. (Yes, you can see me shaking my head now; dining together was VERY difficult at the beginning of our relationship. I am over it now. Well okay, not completely over it, but I’m working on it.)


We began with a variety of their rolls ($1.00ea): Fried Vietnamese- much like your typical egg roll, a bit too greasy, served with a sweet and sour dipping sauce; Grilled Pork Imperial Roll- tender slices of pork with lettuce, rice noodles tightly rolled in a thick rice paper, with hoisin-peanut dipping sauce, topped with chili paste; Shrimp Imperial Roll- just like the Grilled Pork version but with boiled, slightly boring shrimp. The Imperial Rolls were crunchy and refreshing and a little indulgent with the sweet-spicy peanut dipping sauce; they are the perfect summer finger food.


Onto the next course: a cup of Pho. Pho is a traditional Vietnamese soup, influenced by Chinese and French cuisines. It is typically made with beef stock, different cuts of meat and sometimes rice noodles. They are served with a garnish plate of bean sprouts, variety of herbs, jalapeno peppers, and limes so that the diner can customize the flavors of the soup. We ordered the Chicken Pho ($2.95-cup) but unfortunately, only the bowl or larger sizes come with the garnish plate. Nonetheless, the Pho was warm and soothing as it should be, but it lacked the depth of rich, beefy stock.


For our main course, we shared a Chicken Curry Clay Pot ($7.95). Clay pots are another traditional Asian cooking method; cooking in the pot itself creates a moisture lock and the food inside stays tender, piping hot and surprisingly healthy. No additional oils are needed to cook with the clay pot, so the food is lower in fat and the vegetables retain more nutrients as they are not overcooked. The presentation of a clay pot is impressive in itself; the pot is rustic, sometimes colorfully painted and the server removes the top to unveil a steaming, (hopefully) tasty dish. My favorite part about a clay pot dish: the rice at the bottom of the pot is nutty, slightly burned with a nice crunchy texture. The Chicken Curry Clay Pot was a conglomeration of rice, chicken, mixed vegetables in a coconut-yellow curry sauce. This is probably one of the most Americanized- Vietnamese dishes on the menu, but it’s my favorite of the evening. Forget mac n’cheese, this is the best comfort food I’ve had in a long time! The sweet coconut milk and spice – and a good deal of it, too – of the curry complement one another perfectly. The chicken and vegetables are tender, indeed.


For dessert, don’t miss the Vietnamese Coffee. Our fellow diners ordered it over ice; I mean, it’s only 104 outside! Vietnamese coffee is made with a simple, filter style pot. They are individually brewed inside the little chambers, making a strong coffee that falls somewhere between espresso and an Americano. The best part of the coffee, it is served atop a nice, thick layer of condensed milk. Yes, you heard me right, the condensed milk sweetens and thickens the coffee, transforming into something downright holy.


Mai’s is pho’ sho the best value for Vietnamese food in Dallas, so get there in a curry hurry and roll on in.

Mai’s Vietnamese Cuisine
4812 Brian Street, Suite 100
Dallas, Texas 75204
214.826.9887

Photo Credit: InFusion Coffee & Tea Gallery