A "Corner" Bakery Briefing

Our corner: Preston and Forest. My dear friend, Kimberly (Briant) Donner and I used to meet once a week at Corner Bakery, Preston/Forest. Sadly, Kim - or Kimber, as I so affectionately call her - moved to Galveston last year and now resides in Houston. Our breakfasts were always the same: Oatmeal and Coffee. When it comes to oatmeal, I am pretty particular but Corner Bakery has consistently the best around. It's starchy, creamy (they claim its made with skim milk) and the oats are softly broken down, evidence that has been slow cooked.*

As you can see in the picture, the oatmeal is served with a sugar sprinkled, fruit studded piece of toast, called the "sweet crisp". Aptly named, the sweet crisp always proved to be the focus of our attention during breakfast for a few reasons: 1. It is sooo good. 2. It is covered in enough sugar to induce Type 2 Diabetes. Being the typical Baylor girls we are, Kimber and I cannot knowingly consume such copious amounts of sugar in one sitting, thus we remedied the problem with a knife, fork or spoon in hand. Using whichever utensil we had at our disposal, we would scrape the sugar crystals- which measure about 1/4" square, seriously. - off the sweet crisps onto our plates and often those little crystal cubes wound up in unexpected places and they would reveal themselves over the next few days (i.e. in your hair, your purse, your bra, etc.) We had fun and I'm sure it was fun to watch us girls, dissecting the crisps with the precision of brain surgeons.

I am writing to let the world (and mostly, Kimber in Houston) know that the recession has had a positive effect on Corner Bakery. Thanks to cost-cutting and food service controls, the amount of sugar on the said sweet crisps has been drastically reduced, finally allowing for the perfect sweet crisp.

As Chris Farley once said to Pepper Boy, Dana Carvey on SNL, "That's the perfect amount of pepper, Pepper Boy!"

Perfect Amount of Sugar
I want to exclaim, "That's the perfect amount of sugar, Sugar Girl!"

*We can personally testify for the "slow cooked" oats. Kimber and I arrived early one morning only to find that the person in charge of cooking the oatmeal the previous night had forgotten! And it took 30 plus minutes for the oatmeal to slow cook. We waited, of course. Note to self: Don't drink more than one cup of coffee on an empty stomach.

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A Bakery Briefing- Continued

The glorious Orange-Ginger Muffin Cupcake at Empire Baking Company.

And as we all know, you can't go to a bakery for lunch without getting something sweet. At which point, the Orange-Ginger Muffin (as pictured above) comes into play.

So about the muffin - I must digress, I think the term muffin is used very loosely in this case, something this sweet, this good, deserves to be called a cupcake.* After all, in today's society muffins are most commonly associated with muffin tops and well, lets be honest, no one wants to think about this when they are eating. If only muffin tops were still associated with this (!), Otis Spunkenmeyer may sleep soundly six feet under. - it was not something I would normally order, but Heather, being the cupcake connoisseur that she is, did and let me a have bite or two. With its soft, orange cream cheese icing, it is a treat whether it's morning or nigh. The cake itself was very dense, as we often think of muffins, but it had retained much moisture (due to obscene amounts of butter, I'm sure) like a pound cake. The flavor was full, with orange zest and a balance of ginger; it was not overpowering just sublimely enjoyable. At $1.99, this is a muffin to feed two people. I am thankful that Empire Bakery opens at 8am, it will save me pounds and pennies as I have to be at work by 8am.

* If you are further interested in the muffin vs. cupcake debate (as I know I was), check out this wonderfully informative post.

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Birthday Brownies for Birthday Boys

Peanut Butter Brownie, a corner piece.

We had two birthdays in the office today; happy birthday, Bruce and Victor! I love birthdays, giving gifts and any excuse to bake for other people. I did a little research for this birthday. I asked my dear friend and wife of Bruce, Mary, about Bruce's favorite sweet treats. Her reply, "Everything: Chocolate, Peanut Butter..." and that was all I needed to hear.

I have been eyeing the delectable Peanut Butter Brownies from Smitten Kitchen for quite some time now. Admittedly, my version did not turn out quite as beautiful as Deb's (that's right, we're on first name basis) but they were pretty tasty, if I do say so myself. I still get nervous taking baked goods to the office. What if they hate them? Will anyone touch them?

Alas, I am pleased to report, they loved them!! Come 5 o'clock, there was only one brownie left on the plate. Try these. And if you have an allergy to nuts or chocolate, pull out the Epi Pen or go ahead and place a 9-1-1 call. They are worth it.

The following recipe is from Smitten Kitchen.

Peanut Butter Brownies

Makes 32 brownies, more or less, depending on how you cut them.

For brownies

2 sticks (1/2 pound) unsalted butter, softened

1 3/4 cups sugar

1 cup creamy peanut butter

2 large eggs plus 1 large yolk

2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

2 cups all-purpose flour

1 1/2 cups semisweet chocolate chips (9 ounces)

1/2 teaspoon salt, depending on saltiness of the peanut butter

For ganache

1 1/2 cups semisweet chocolate chips (9 ounces)

1/2 cup heavy cream

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, softened

Make brownies: Preheat oven to 350 degrees F with rack in middle. Butter a 13- by 9- by 2-inch baking pan, then line bottom of pan with parchment paper and butter parchment.
Beat together butter and sugar with an electric mixer at medium-high speed until mixture is light and fluffy, then add peanut butter and beat until incorporated. Beat in whole eggs, egg yolk, and vanilla. Reduce mixer sped to low, then mix in flour until just combined.

Mix in chocolate chips (1 1/2 cups) then spread batter in baking pan, smoothing top. (It will be thick, almost like cookie batter.)

Bake until brownies are deep golden, puffed on top and a wooden pick inserted in center come out with some crumbs adhering, 40 to 45 minutes.
Cool completely in pan on a rack, about 1 1/2 hours.

Make ganache: Put chocolate chips (1 1/2 cups) in a heatproof bowl.
Bring cream to a boil in a small saucepan, then pour over chocolate chips and let mixture stand for one minute. Gently whisk in butter until it is incorporated, chocolate is melted, and a smooth mixture forms. Spread ganache on cooled brownies and let stand until set, about 15 minutes.

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Broadway Boogie Woogie

Piet and Pastry, two of my favorite things. I love Piet Mondrian, that crazy Dutchman. Simple, clean lines and bright primary colors. This beautiful slice is a work of art from pastry chef of the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA), Caitlin Williams Freeman. Once an art student and drawn to a career in pastry arts after viewing a Thiebaud retrospect, Freeman creates unique desserts influenced by the very galleries inside the modern art museum.

At the cafe, Freeman makes one Mondrian cake each day. She bakes different colored cakes, in various sizes, and cuts the baked cakes into thin, long shapes. Then she coats each piece in chocolate ganache and assembles them in a long pan. After chilling the newly assembled masterpiece, she further coats in the entire cake in chocolate ganache. Too pretty to eat? I don't think so. Read more!

A Bakery Briefing

Image via Wikipedia

"That buzzing-noise means something. If there's a buzzing noise, somebody's making a buzzing-noise, and the only reason for making a buzzing-noise that I know of is because you're a bee.....
And the only reason for being a bee that I know of is making honey.....
And the only reason for making honey is so as I can eat it."

from Winnie-the-Pooh, A.A. Milne

Last week, I met Heather for our bi-monthly lunch at Empire Bakery on Lovers and Inwood. I have been admiring this bakery from a distance for quite some time now. I am a sucker for a good logo and yes, I do judge a book by its cover (and wine bottles by their label, however, I am steadily overcoming this weakness of character.)

The interior of the bakery, or "Baking Company", reflects the clean lines and modern simplicity of it's logo. Inside there are a few counter tables topped with white carrera marble but the space is largely dominated by the bakery display and counter. Empire sells an assortment of fresh breads, muffins, cookies and other baked goods. There are also retail shelves devoted to jams, jellies and other pretty packages. There are a few wooden patio tables outside, which is where we chose to lunch.

According to their website, Empire was started by couple Robert and Meaders Moore Ozarow to provide Dallas with European style breads. From there, they developed a sandwich line to highlight their breads. I think this is a key statement for Empire Bakery's sandwich selections. You choose your sandwich, pre-made, from a refrigerated cases and pay at the counter.
My sandwich, Mozzarella, Basil Pesto and Roma Tomato on Calamata Olive bread, was good, not great but nonetheless a good simple sandwich. The mozzarella and tomato sandwich is my go-to order for initial impressions; it is a sandwich intended to focus on the quality of it's few ingredients. As I previously stated, Empire's focus is on their bread and that came through in my sandwich. It was a smart combination because without the fresh, bouncy (yes, bouncy!) Calamata bread the sandwich would not have succeeded. The Calamatas were large chunks in the swirly, sourdough-based bread and they provided much needed seasoning to the sandwich. The bread made this sandwich.

And as we all know, you can't go to a bakery for lunch without getting something sweet. To be continued...

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being catty - 6.19.09

Don’t be turned off by it’s proximity to Condom Sense and Gizmo’s Tattoos, Izmir Deli and Market is a wonderful place for a quiet and quaint Mediterranean meal. Izmir Deli belongs to a larger restaurant group/family that owns the popular Cafe Izmir, just up the street on Greenville.


As I entered, the space reminded me of the cafes and espresso bars that dominate the European cities. Four or five small tables are fill the front quarter of the narrow store. Then a bar/countertop lines the entire right-hand side, leading back to the semi-open kitchen. On the left-hand side, starting at the same point as the countertop, retail shelves line the wall.


You place your order with the friendly little man behind the counter (who runs the place with an ease and accent that suggests he owns the joint). Avert your eyes from the mini-display of desserts beside the cash register; it holds beautiful brownies the size of bricks and perfectly flaky baklava. Take your seat at one of the aforementioned tables or at the counter, the man (let’s just call him Max, short for Maximus) will bring your drinks and silverware.


I like this place. It is as simple as that; time seems to slow down a bit inside Izmir Deli. I am transported back to better days (not really “better”, but writers incorporate nostalgia to generate empathy from their readers) when life was easy, when we walked to the school barefoot and come home to house filled with the scent of freshly baked cookies. Back to business, Max will deliver your food as soon as it hits the kitchen window. “Can I get you anything else?” I knew it; he saw me eyeing those brownies that sneaky devil. “No, thank you.”


Hummus, Eegra, and Russian Chicken Salad. I ordered the Mezza Platter (serves 1) choose any three tapas, 4 oz. each, served with pita bread for $7.99. The “whipped” hummus has an incredibly smooth texture, unlike any hummus I have ever had. I enjoyed it thoroughly, but I must admit something here: my favorite hummus to this day is found in the wonderfully corporate Central Market deli. Theirs is unusually coarse for hummus with bits of chunky chickpeas, very light on the tahini and olive oil. A rustic hummus, if you will. Nonetheless, this hummus would be perfect for a party; it is a real crowd-pleaser. Next up, eegra is “a grilled eggplant dip” served warm, it is stewed with tomatoes and the secret spices. Eegra, scary as it sounds, is smoky, spicy and seductive. This was my favorite part of the platter. I ended up just taking a spoon to the eegra. Done and done. Last stop is Russian chicken salad. Now, this was the only dish that I ordered solely based on its fame and Yelp popularity. Lame, I know. It was a monochromatic ‘ice cream’ scoop of boring chicken salad. I was pleased to come across the occasional sweet pea, but other than that, it was not memorable. Served alongside the tapas was a basket full of pita bread, warm, fluffy and freshly baked. It was the ideal accompaniment to the hummus and eegra.


So ideal, in fact, that I wrote a little diddy for the trio:


We go together
like hum-hum-hummus and eegra and pita
Remembered forever
as Max’s massive brownies and buttery baklava
Chang chang...
Okay, you get the point.



Izmir Deli and Market
3607 Greenville Ave
Dallas, Texas
Phone: 214-824-8484


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being catty - 6.05.09

Make new friends but keep the old. This classic nursery rhyme speaks perfectly to Royal China. As they claim to be “the oldest family owned Chinese restaurant in North Dallas”, Royal China continues to serve incredible, traditional “old” Chinese cuisine and only falters when it comes to the inexperienced, “new” waitstaff.


To begin, we were warmly greeted at the door and sat on a spacious, comfortable banquette. I must point out that far too often banquettes are crowded, stiff and render the entire experience strained. Who wants to hear the Preston Hollow Junior Leaguers gossiping about the new committee co-chair? “Not I,” chimes the chorus. I think I must have been overwhelmed by the friendliness of the greeter, because I had not even taken time to look over the recently remodeled interior.


This was our first visit, so we couldn’t accurately compare to the older interior. But as a Chinese restaurant was established in the 70’s, I have some pretty good clues: fish tanks and Chinese calendar placemats. (I’m an ox; we make great hairdressers and surgeons. No, seriously though, we do.) Back to the restaurant, the interior was refined, modern with some funky Asian accents.


As I briefly noted in the introduction, we did not have the best server in the lot. Although very familiar with the menu, she was slightly pushy and attempted the “up-sell” at several points during the meal. We began with “Dumpling Sampler” ($8), pan-seared. They were served with a soy-based garlic dipping sauce, good but forgettable. The dumplings were very good and each unique both in filling and wrapper. The favorites were the shrimp dumpling with sweet beet wrapper and veggie dumpling with the spinach wrapper. At about this point, the SigO and I noticed that we were missing the complimentary crunchy wontons; everyone else had them! Quickly, he pinned down the server and asked for “those crispy noodles with the sauces”. I found these to be boring and a waste of a lot of calories, but he, on the other hand, recalled these as a key part of the meal.


And then our main dishes arrived. I had the “Flat Noodles with Chicken” ($11) and he had the “Dry Stirred Beef” ($13). My flat rice noodles had a wonderfully smooth texture and at the risk of being too starchy, they were surprisingly light. The noodle bowl, stir fried with cabbage, onion, bean sprouts and carrots, seemed like the ultimate “Chinese comfort food.” The SO’s dry stirred beef claimed to be “the all time favorite” on the menu. And I can see why: the beef was perfectly crispy on the outside with a tender, flavorful bite in the middle. The real test, at least for me, is the “steamed” broccoli. How many times does the broccoli turn out to be limp and overcooked? “Too many!” you answer. Yes, but alas, this broccoli came crisp and clean.


I must end on a sour note, because our meal ended on a sour note. Throughout the meal, our server was aloof and flirting with the bartender. Either she had full confidence in the kitchen or she just didn’t care. Probably the latter, because it took us forever to get the check (Lady, I know how long that takes on Micros, you are not fooling anyone here) and forever to get it processed.


As I am feeling right now and as those fair fortune cookies sometimes read,

“A conclusion is simply the place where you got tired of thinking.”


Royal China
6025 Royal Lane, Suite 201
Dallas, Texas
Phone: 214-361-1771


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